I’m definitely not the first travel writer to call Wallowa County the Swiss Alps of the Pacific Northwest, and I’m sure more than a few folks have compared Joseph to Aspen. All three places offer high-altitude forests, snow capped mountains, and a plethora of attractions for visitors including cycling and hiking, rafting and kayaking, birdwatching and fishing and, of course, beer.
But being an Oregonian (and an Eastern Oregonian at that), I’m going out on a limb while simultaneously risking winding up on the enemies list of both the Colorado Tourism Board and the Swiss Guard by making the following bold claims:
- The Swiss Alps should be called Europe’s Wallowa County
- Joseph offers more bang for the buck than the town Hunter Thompson tried to rename Fat City.
So before I get a visit from a squad of pike-wielding flunkies in Renaissance-era uniforms (or a cease-and-desist letter from the Colorado Tourism Board), let me back up my not-so-wild claims that affordably laid-back Wallowa county beats Switzerland and Aspen by a country mile.
We’ll start with a few objective and verifiable facts:
A whole continent and ocean separates us from Switzerland – you’ll need a plane ticket & passport to visit. Aspen is much closer, but it’s still a long drive from Oregon. Joseph (and nearby Wallowa Lake) is close enough to Pendleton to meet a date for lunch and still be back in time for dinner. (Not that you should rush it.)
Switzerland is famously expensive. While many Swiss people speak English (to be fair, their education system is top-notch) the lingua franca of Switzerland is Swiss French and German. So you’ll probably want to learn a few phrases in both before hitting the bars in Zurich.
Throughout Wallowa County, on the other hand, the word for beer is “beer.”
And while you won’t need to learn another language to visit Aspen, the place is notoriously expensive and over-touristed — Wallowa receives around half of Aspen’s 1.5 million annual visitors.
Despite attracting folks from Portland, Boise and beyond seeking art, activities and scenic beauty far from the maddening crowd, Wallowa never feels crowded. So now that I’ve (hopefully) convinced local readers to postpone their Swiss excursions / Colorado road trips a while, let’s put comparisons aside and get down to brass tacks.
Why Visit Wallowa County?
Well, for starters…Wallowa is Cool! Wal’alwa (as the area is called by the local Nez Perce, who’ve inhabited the area from time immemorial) is Eastern Oregon’s coolest county – not just subjectively (though it may well be), but coolest as in most temperate.
Not for nothing has Wallowa long been a favorite summer destination for people from Seattle to Boise looking to escape the heat. Snowmelt-fed Wallowa Lake is bracingly cold even in August, and the many cool rivers running through the county provide excellent opportunities for rafting, kayaking, swimming, and sportfishing.
Must visit: Wallowa Lake, obviously – but if possible you should stay at Wallowa Lake Lodge.
Nearly hidden by towering pine trees, this 100+ year-old independently/locally owned and operated low-key resort offers gourmet meals in their Camas Dining Room and spirits and libations at the Redd Bar. As far as activities go, the lodge offers live bands on Saturday evenings and every Sunday morning, both on their beautiful lakeside lawn suitable for dancing, chilling, and getting your drishti on. Wallowa Lake Lodge is also the perfect base for hiking, biking & exploring the region in general.
Speaking of exploring, Wallowa’s towns are laid back, colorful, and totally worth exploring. We’ll start with Joseph, the town on Wallowa Lake’s northern end.
Joseph is gorgeous, affordable and decidedly unpretentious (take that, Aspen). It’s also become a magnet to urban artisans in search of greener pastures. Joseph’s Main Street teems with art, boutiques, restaurants, bars, and venues well beyond what one might expect in a city whose official population barely cracks 1200. You can easily spend a full day checking on the shops on Main Street. Time your visit to check out the Wallowa Lake Farmers market, which happens every Saturday from 9am-2pm throughout the summer, attracting artists, musicians and (of course) farmers from around Oregon.
Don’t Miss: The community-run Josephy Center for Arts and Culture is a non-profit offering classes, exhibits and art created by local artists. Check out their website for current & upcoming events!
Next up, Enterprise. Friendly, authentic and refreshingly unpretentious. if Joseph is Wallowa county’s art nexus then Enterprise is its commercial heart. Framed by sweeping views of the Wallowa Mountains and surrounded by working ranches, Enterprise offers a vibrant mix of cafés, breweries, shops, galleries and community gathering places. Downtown Enterprise is walkable, and Main Street’s historic buildings house an eclectic collection of stores, bars and restaurants.
Must-visit: Don’t let a trip to Enterprise go by without a meal and a pint at the famous Terminal Gravity Brewery & Pub. You’ve seen their IPAs in cans and taps all around greater Cascadia, so why not go right to the main source in gorgeous Enterprise? The ambiance can’t be beat, with an outdoor dining area offering live music and exquisite food. Everything on the menu is top-notch, with dishes guaranteed to satisfy vegans, carnivores, gluten-avoiders and everyone in between.
But wait, there’s more: Wallowa, the small town bearing the name of the surrounding county is so low-key that some folks drive right through on their way to the lake. Don’t be like those people. Wallowa is steeped in the traditions of Oregon’s rural northeast, offering a chance to step back in time and set your internal clock to Wallowa time before continuing your journey. Historic buildings, family-owned businesses and generations-old ranching operations still define daily life, making Wallowa the natural gateway to the region’s rich cultural heritage and outdoor recreation opportunities.
Don’t miss: After strolling around downtown (which boasts a couple of excellent thrift stores), make your way to 209 E Second Street, where you’ll find the Nez Perce Homeland Visitor’s Center – interpreting the history, culture and enduring legacy of the Nez Perce people whose connection to this landscape stretches back thousands of years.
Finally, speaking of thrift stores… though the town of Lostine is small enough to drive through without a second glance…don’t! This tiny town (population 241) halfway between Wallowa and Enterprise boasts a multi-building thrift store called Second Hand Antiques with amazingly curated items and curios dating well back into the 19th century. This amazing store is closed Monday and Tuesday, so try and time your trip accordingly. As if this wasn’t reason enough to stop, across the road is where you’ll find the historic M. Crow, a veritable East Oregon Landmark offering food, beer and crafts, all made sustainably with local material. (They also have an onsite radio station which is pretty cool.)
Getting to Wallowa
Coming in from Pendleton & surrounding towns? You can take I-84 to La Grande before switching to Rte 82 at Island City, but taking route 11 to Weston before turning east on the Weston-Elgin highway is lovely as well. Stop in Tollgate Crossing for a pastry.
If you’re coming from Portland or Boise, take I-84 to La Grande and switch to Rte 82 as above. 82 skirts the northern contours of the Wallowa-Whitman National forest for 75 miles before reaching Joseph and the lake’s northern shore.
(Either way, take a few minutes to stop in Elgin.)
Public transportation is available through Community Connections, who run semi-regular buses between Enterprise and the lake with stops in Joseph.
Though this article is geared towards summer travelers, Wallowa has plenty of activities for those willing to brave the sometimes-snowed in Rte 82 during Eastern Oregon’s white winters.
For more information on visiting Wallowa County, visit the Wallowa County Chamber of Commerce.
Another typical Swiss person takes umbrage with this article. He challenged me to a game of chess to defend his nation’s honor. Checkmated me in 9 moves. Out of respect, I conceded that I’d gone too far by calling Enterprise “Oregon’s Gimmelwald” but stood my ground that the Swiss Alps are Europe’s Wallowa County.
This article dedicated to Nathanial Hornblower, missing since 2012 and presumed in a better place.
